4. Representation

My culturally sophisticated demographic will be looking for a magazine that challenges the typical representations and stereotypes of people found in modern society. In order for my magazine to appeal to my audience I must feature a range of representations which challenge the boundaries of the fashion industry. I may do this by highlighting a variety of cultures and ethnicities, challenging racial discrimination; featuring androgynous clothing and styles, challenging gender stereotypes; using a variety of models with unique looks and body shapes, supporting self expression and promoting the beauty of diversity. Hall's representations theory explores the significance of signs and symbols giving meaning to images in the media which are decoded by the audience. He also explains how these representations heavily influence expectations within society and provide the public with aspirations to conform to these standards.

This Dec 2017 cover for ELLE magazine presents a stunning black woman with minimalistic makeup, demonstrating her natural beauty, opposing the 'edited beauty' conventions often found in magazines. The gap between her teeth is not hidden, presenting her unique look as something to be embraced and valued. The red colour of her dress matches the masthead of the magazine and the word 'sisters', the connotations of 'sister' promoting a sense of intimacy and support, demonstrating the value of acceptance and solidarity.

This Summer 2017 cover for i-D magazine shows two female models and one male model, all styled in similar ways, promoting an androgynous approach to beauty and fashion. the closeness of the models connotes friendship and acceptance of each other. Both women have very short hair and minimal makeup, giving them a more typically 'male' look, however their accessories and mannerisms create a sense of femininity. The male model portrays a sense of timidity through his body language, opposing the way men are expected to conform to masculine stereotypes. This presentation of diversity and androgyny breaks down social standards, promoting self-expression equality between all genders and opposes stereotypes.  

Pride is a lifestyle and fashion magazine which specifically targets black British, mixed race, African and African-Caribbean women in the United Kingdom. It combines elements of fashion, sex and relationship advice, politics, news and sport, supporting minority ethnic groups as well as the LGBT+ community. A recent cover of the magazine featured Janelle Monáe, an African-American, pansexual performer who campaigns for women's rights. Immediately, when viewers see this magazine, they understand their values and can relate to the cover.


In my own magazine, I will present different representations through my variety of photographs featuring a range of models, a range of article titles and descriptions, and the use of my tagline 'thinking outside the box', which promotes self-expression and diversity, encouraging my readers to be proud of their individuality. My website will also feature several stories which express my magazine's values and opinions on social issues, such as racism, sexism and homophobia, as well as political issues, such as unethical practice in fashion, Brexit and student finance. In relation to Gerbener's cultivation theory, I will expose my readers to a variety of accurate representations of social groups in order to combat stereotypes and assumptions consumers make when exposed to mass media.

3. Codes and Conventions

Front Covers

Before creating my own front covers I must understand the codes and conventions of existing covers so that I can implement them in my own work and develop effective, successful magazine covers. The front cover of a magazine is the first element of the product that the consumer will see, and therefore it needs to be bold and eye catching as well as expressive of the magazine's values.

This cover features a striking mid shot of the model in front of a simplistic, gradient background, the models head overlapping with the large magazine title. Three different font styles have been used in two contrasting colours which match the colour palette of the model's outfit. I like the use of a range of fonts and complementary colours to link the image to the text, and intend to use these techniques in my own work.  The cover uses the question 'Prada nails, anyone?' in order to reach out to their target audience and compel people to read the issue. The cover uses the a large headline, 'Style Remix', and has several small headings such as 'Feminist Fashion' and 'Trends Special'. In accordance with Barthes Semiotics theory, the language used by the magazine connotes its style and purpose, here clearly relating to the fashion industry.



This cover is more minimalist than most fashion magazines, with a plain background and little information about the issue inside. The magazine name is in large print alongside the model, and contains the hidden logo of a winking face, which the model also expresses. This use of hidden connotations allows the target audience to engage with the magazine. The subheading 'Super Youth' addresses the target audience and appeals to the young demographic, a technique documented by Barthes in his theory of Identity. I really like the striking hair and makeup of the model and how this contrasts her dark clothes. Again, this magazine has utilised complementary colours, matching the subtext colour to the nail varnish of the model.

This magazine cover uses an out-of-focus picture as a background  in order to locate the subject, making the cover inviting and immersive. It utilities a variety bold fonts in contrasting colours but the title of the magazine is given a unique font in order to distinguish the brand. The sub-headings don't give away much information, for example 'Michael Wolff in conversation with George Osborne' doesn't reveal the subject of conversation, but intrigues the target audience through the mention of a notorious politician. This encourages them to read the magazine by utilising techniques explored by Barthes, whose enigma code theory shows how mysteries appeal to audiences. The subheadings on the magazine shows how the magazine has a verity of focuses such as politics, film and fashion. This shows the magazine's utilisation of generic hybridity


Based on my research, I can identify the main features of conventional magazines and incorporate these in my own magazine covers. These include

- main image of a model - this will often show the magazine's brand identity and highlight to the reader the genre and intended target audience of the magazine.
- background - often plain colours or a gradient, can also be a location shot which is typically out of focus to highlight the model
- masthead - a key part of the magazines branding found at the top of the page in a bold font
- headlines - the number of these on the cover varies; more will suggest that the magazine is packed with content but connote a gossip style, whereas less will show the magazines sophisticated style
- issue number and date - often in the top left corner
- bar code - often found in the bottom right corner
- price - in variable positions
- tagline - reinforces brand identity and magazine purpose
- call to action to the website- to encourage readers to look for more content online.
- direct address- can be done through the model's body language or through the choice of language. This can create a connection between the reader and magazine and encourage them to purchase it.
- colour palette - a clear colour scheme that can used to link different elements on a cover or add aesthetic
- semiotics - signs and symbols create representations which the audience can identify with/understand. Barthes explores the ways elements present connotations to be decoded by the audience

Contents Pages

The contents page of a magazine is used to show the reader what is featured and also helps to make the magazine easier to navigate. If the magazine's front cover has appealed to a consumer, they may look at the contents page in order to see what is inside before buying it, and therefore it must be enticing and appeal to my target audience.

This contents page features the magazine title, the date and issue number in the masthead. It also shows a collection of three large images with a collage-style formatting which helps engage the audience. Each image has a title and page reference relating to the article it's from. This also gives insight into the rest of the magazine which may inspire the demographic to buy the issue. I like this layout with the subheadings in bold along the left hand side. The main background of this page is white, to draw more attention to the images and text.

This contents page also uses a collage format of overlapping images showing the features of the magazine. Each image has a page reference linking to the article it's from. This page has the title 'Contents' down the left hand side. A variety of subheadings are listed in this magazine and have smaller font with detailed descriptions. The main background of this page is white, to draw more attention to the images and text.

Based on my research I can identify the main features of conventional contents pages and incorporate these in my own contents pages. These conventions are as follows:

- a grid layout with lists of articles and page numbers.
- white background - this draws the readers attention to the images and contents headlines featured
- a collection of images - can be spread out or overlapping with the contents running down the side
- a masthead- will normally contain a large 'contents' heading and some may have the magazine's title instead or in addition
- can be a single or double page spread
- a web address or information on how to subscribe to the magazine featured at the bottom or top of the page

Websites

The website of a magazine is used to provide their audience with information about the brand and encourage them to buy it. It also provides audiences with the opportunity for interactivity, enabling them to navigate the site, view media and subscribe to the magazine or newsletters.

This website has a white main background which draws more attention to the images and text. It features social media links in the top right corner. The title of the magazine and a menu bar feature center-top. There is a large image extending across the whole width of the page with a link to the article it references. Below this there is a large call to action to subscribe to the magazine and weekly newsletter. Similarly, in the top left there is a link to subscribe to the magazine with images of the most recent cover. There is a search bar in the middle of the page. As you scroll down the page, articles and features are laid out in a grid format and separated into categories such as 'Fashion' and 'Lifestyle'.

This website also has a white background and features a large masthead including the magazine's title, logo and slogan. In the header, there is a drop-down menu and menu bar to help navigate the page. The logo is featured here on the left, and social media links and the magazine publisher, VICE, are featured on the left. The website has a large image extending across the whole width of the page with a link to the article. This image changes everyday. Below this there is the subheading 'today on ID', which features several articles in a grid format, each with external links and categories such as 'fashion', 'beauty', 'culture' and 'entertainment'.

This is an additional fashion page for the same website. The formatting is very similar to the homepage, with a grid of articles which open up in separate tabs The title and logo of the magazine is still featured in the masthead and the drop-down menu is still accessible from the top left.




Websites also commonly show a small thumbnail of their latest issue in the top left corner of the website header. This is accompanied by a short line about subscription details and a link to subscribe to the magazine.

Based on my research I can identify the main features of conventional websites and incorporate these in my own. These conventions are as follows:

- a main menu bar - normally at the top of the page beneath the masthead
- links to different pages of the website - normally related to featured images
- the magazine's title and logo - often at the top of the page in the masthead
- the magazine's tagline - often included in the masthead below the title
- subscription - constant promotion and buttons to subscribe
- landing page - a tab popping up when the website first opens which greets the viewer and encourages them to subscribe to the magazine
- social media links - normally in the top right corner
- footer with options for subscription, information and contact link
- audio-visual content - found throughout the website to engage audience
- white background with a grid format of images
- Synergy - the stories overlap with others featured in the physical magazines and sometimes provide further detail. The articles also cross over with their social media pages
- a search bar - can be in at the top of the page near the menu or under the masthead
- a variety of different images with links to different pages on the website

2. Industry

Publisher and Creator

My magazine is going to be published by Bauer, Europe’s largest privately-owned media group and Britain’s biggest magazine publisher, reaching over 23 million consumers in the UK alone. They print over 600 magazines worldwide from a wide range of genres, including Empire, Bella and Heat. 

Their website slogan is 'We Think Popular', linking their focus to mainstream values and themes, tailoring to the majority of people. They describe themselves as building 'strong cultural connections, drawing people together with the things that they really care about'. In response to this, I should make sure my magazine reflects Bauer's values by featuring mainstream trends as well as supporting a culturally diverse society and promoting the act of sharing among my readers.

Bauer Publishing's main fashion magazine is Grazia. The Bauer website describes Grazia as 'brave, bold and innovative', elements I hope to exhibit in my own magazine. Grazia also tailors to the AB and culturally sophisticated demographic. However, in contrast to my magazine, Grazia's audience is predominantly female with a core readership of women aged 25-45. These distinctions between our magazines enables Bauer to publish both without fear of  competition between them.

My magazine has been created by an 'independent media production company'. Independent production companies often target smaller, niche audiences and do not always conform to the typical conventions of industrial magazines. However, as my magazine is being published by Bauer and intended for retail sale, I must make the compromise of maintaining certain conventional elements which will appeal to large audiences, whilst still creating a magazine with a unique and independent feel. An example of a successful independent magazine production company is Kinfolk Magazine, whose publication has spread worldwide and been translated into Chinese, Russian and Japanese. It currently holds a readership of over 55,000. Published by Ouur, Kinfolk has created a "distinct ripple in the publishing world with an aesthetic all its own", states Portland monthly.

Technological Convergence and Synergy

Nowadays, with the growth of technology and social media, it is important for magazines to reach and engage their audience online. They can do this by creating a website and managing social media accounts which are updated regularly to constantly keep their viewers informed. Across all their online platforms, magazines must maintain a synergised brand identity which is recognisable to their audience. For example, on ELLE UK's Instagram page, their icon is the latest issue of their magazine, demonstrating technological convergence by uniting their product with their online media. They also have created a hyperlink to their webpage in their Insta bio, creating synergy by connecting their different online platforms. 

Regulation

The IPSO (Independant Press Standards Organistion) is 'the independent regulator of most of the UK’s newspapers and magazines'. They are financed by the Regulatory Funding Company (RFC) which is funded by member publications. Their job is to ensure that all publications comply with the Editors' Code: a set of rules written by the  Editors’ Code Committee and updated every year. This ensures that any publication has integrity and is not harmful or offensive to anyone within society. They also ensure that all magazine content is original and not intellectual property of another company or individual, and provide a 24-hour harassment helpline service for people feeling threatened or objectified by the press.

Funding

Most magazines receive revenue from both the cover price of their magazines as well as advertising. As the majority of my magazine's revenue will come from advertising, it is important that it is presented as an attractive platform for advertisers. I will do this by creating my magazine to appeal to a large audience. This can be done by featuring a wide range of mainstream topics which appeal to a variety of people, and keeping the price of my magazine low so as to attract more people to buy it. My specified 16-25 culturally sophisticated AB demographic will also enable advertisers to tailor their featured ads so that they can target my readership.

Current trends in the industry

Covers published since September 2018 have seen an increase in diversity by more than 30%, with black women heavily featured on the covers of top magazines such as Vogue, Glamour, Marie Claire and Cosmopolitan. This increase in racial diversity marks a new wave of fashion magazines which are showing support for equality and individuality. This is a trend I would like to harness within my own magazine in order to promote diversity and appeal to a broad range of people.

Current fashion trends popular among the 16-25 demographic include Street Style fashion and the re-vamping of old or thrift clothes, featuring styles from 1960-90. An example of this can be seen through the release of Nasty Gal designer's new collaboration line with Courtney Love, reviving the 'babydoll' dresses from the 90s. I could appeal to my target audience effectively by incorporating features on this trend in my magazine and website.

1. Audience

Example Magazine Demographics

ELLE Magazine's Demographic (in 1000s)

GQ Magazine's Demographic (in 1000s)

My Target Audience

The audience for my magazine is the 'culturally sophisticated, 16-25 AB demographic'. This indicates that my magazine must appeal to students and young adults of the AB demographic who have completed or are in higher education and are predicted to join higher/intermediate managerial, administrative and professional careers.

Target Audience Profile

Culturally sophisticated AB 16-25 year olds in the UK will be spending most of their time either at school/college/uni or work and will enjoy going out in the evenings and weekends with friends. They're most likely up to date on popular TV shows such as Love Island and internet trends. They will like to discuss pop-culture and trends online, with work colleagues and with friends. Their hobbies may include blogging, shopping, going to the cinema, playing video games and travelling. This generation is also becoming more accepting of social change and will likely have left-sided political opinions. The majority of this group will support equality and oppose sexism, racism and homophobia. Popular stores they may like to shop in include H&M, Topshop, Boohoo, ASOS, Uniqlo and Adidas. Those with a larger disposable income will also buy items from Zara, Levis, Urban Outfitters, Nasty Gal, Calvin Klein and Supreme. They will also like to source a lot of their clothing from charity or thrift stores.

The 16-25 demographic contribute approximately £20 billion to the UK economy and therefore will be likely to spend money on high-end fashion brands featured in my magazine. However, as many of those within this demographic will be students, I will make my magazine price relatively inexpensive in order to appeal specifically to those in full-time education. According to Business Insider UK, 99% of those between 16-24 use social media once a week or more. This age group also spends an average of 2 hours 26 minutes a day. This means that people within my target audience are likely to have a strong social media presence which should be espoused through my magazine and website.

My magazine will be unisex, therefore must appeal to both genders which can be achieved by featuring male, female and androgynous models and clothing. My magazine may also appeal to its audience by engaging with issues surrounding diversity and equality between sexuality, gender and race.

The Oxford dictionary defines 'sophisticated' as someone with 'a great deal of worldly experience and knowledge of fashion and culture', and therefore my magazine will need to be presented as a high-quality product which is a reliable source of fashion insight and potentially offers a new and challenging perspective on modern fashion culture which would captivate my savvy target market.

My Secondary Audience

My secondary audience may consist of adults aged between 30-40 belonging to the AB demographic, who are curious about current fashion trends and the progression of modern fashion. They will have great knowledge of culture and fashion brands and be drawn to the high quality of my magazine and its relevance to modern society. My magazine may also appeal to an ABC1 readership, as those in a C1 social grade may be wishing to expand their knowledge of high-end fashion and brands.